The
next step up beyond hiking is to tackle one of the 18 mountains
designated as trekking peaks. The category was created by the
Nepal Mountaineering association as an intermediate stage between
hiking and all-out mountaineering. They are often close to major
peaks, with astounding views from their summits. Climbing them
gives you the exhilaration of pitting yourself against Himalayan
conditions and altitudes, so don’t underestimate the challenge.
It is essential to note that these are still considerable mountains,
taller than almost anything in North America or Europe. Don’t
be fooled by the name ‘trekking peak’ - most require
a little scrambling over snow and ice so make sure you are familiar
with the use of crampons and ice axes.
Perhaps
one of the major differences between Alpine and Himalayan mountaineering
is the sense of commitment that comes from being in a remote place
beyond the help of others. In Nepal things are different. Even
on the easiest of peaks, unless there are other parties about,
you are on your own and groups climbing in the Himalaya have to
be willing and able to handle their own rescue and evacuation.
Nepal does have helicopters, operated by different private airlines
and they do respond to emergency - so we advise you to have full
insurance covering helicopter evacuation and medical. |
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| Everest
Region |
| MERA
PEAK (6467)
Mera at 6,467 m is one of the
highest official permitted trekking peaks in Nepal. It rises to
the South of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily
wooded Valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. It offers some
of the most spectacular mountain scenery, pristine forest, and
high altitude climbing in the world. By its standard route from
the Mera La, the ascent is technically straight forward but after
a heavy snow fall route can be long and difficult. From the summit
you can have magnificent views of Kanchenjunga, Makalu in the
east, Everest and Lhotse to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho
Oyu to the west.
Day : 17
Summit : 6,467 m
Base Camp : 5,415 m Mera La
Season : March/April & October/November
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Imje
Tse (Island Peak) :
Imje Tse commonly known as Island peak is another popular peak
in the Everest region. The mountain is logically an outlier on
the south ridge of Lhotse Shar, and enclosed by the giant Lhotse
and Imja Glaciers. The views from the summit of Imja Tse are quite
spectacular, surrounded and dwarfed as it is by Nuptse (7,879
m), Lhotse 8,501 m and Lhotse Shar 8,383 m. The eastern horizon
is dominated by Makalu 8,475 m and Baruntse 7,720 m while just
across the valley to the south rises the shapely Ama Dablam 6,856
m
Trip
: 19 Days
Summit : Imje Tse 6,189 m
Base Camp : 5,078 m
Grade : Alpine Grade PD+
Season : April & October/November
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now
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LOBUCHE
EAST
Lobuje
East - is an attractive summit, offering a variety of existing
routes and wide scope for new lines. This peak of 6145 m
lies in the Solukhumbu region and its a trek of about 7/8
days from Lukla.There exist two distinct summits to Lobuje
Peak : Lobuje East (6,119m/20,075 ft) and Lobuje West 6,145m/20,161
ft). The true East Peak is quite striking and is reached
by descending into a marked notch and climbing steep snow/ice
slopes to the top. Top is exposed and often covered with
rotten ice.
Trip
: 17 Days
Summit : 6,145 m
Grade : Alpine Grade Pd
Base Camp : 5,551
Season : April & October/November
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now |
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| Rolwaling
Region |
PACHERMO
This
peak of 6,187 m located in a Rolwaling region can be approached
either from Rolwaling or from Khumbu. Both trek has to be
fully organized as there are no tea houses. Its a attractive
mountain but steep snow climb
on a route subject to avalanches. Peak is just above Tashi
Lapcha. Nepal Mountaineering Association call this peak
Parchemuche.
Trip
: 14/22 Day
Summit : 6,187 m
Base Camp: Tasi Lapcha 5,755 m
Grade : Alpine Grade PD
Season : April/October
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now |
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| RAMDUNG
Requires a
long approach through Rolwaling valley, it is situated south of
Na in the upper Rolwaling and is one of a cluster of peaks around
the Yalung La, a pass giving access to the upper Rolwaling from
the south, via the Khare Khola. The peaks in the areas were first
explored by the Scottish Himalayan expdition. Although the mountain
by its normal route of ascent, the glaciers of the North-East
Flank, is straightforward, its virtues lie in its magnificent
position and splendid summit panorama.
Trip
: 14/22 Day
Summit : 5,930 m
Base Camp: Kongma Lakes +5300m
Grade : Alpine Grade PD
Season : April/October
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now
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| Annapurna
Region |
THARPU
CHULI
This
peak also known as Tent Peak is situated in the heart of the Annapurna
Sanctuary, its around 5 days walk from Pokhara, It is an attractive
mountain; part of the ridge line, thrown south from Glacier Dome,
that includes Singu Chuli and acts as a central divider between
the semi circle of peaks enclosing the sanctuary. Seen from the
moraines above the huts at the Annapurna South base camp, the
mountain takes on a shape, aptly described by its former name
Tent Peak. .Also you will have great time climbing this mountains
with a superb views of the Annapurna massive.
Trip
: 16 Days
Summit : 5,663 m
Base Camp: Annapurna Base Camp 4,200 m
Grade : Northwest ridge, Alpine Grade PD, Southeast ridge Alpine
Grade AD
Season : April, October, November
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now
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| SINGU
CHULI (6501 m) Singu
Chuli is the mountain formerly known as Fluted Peak. Though it
has got quite an easy access but this mountain has proven too
difficult for most commercial climbing groups so most of them
concentrates their efforts on Tent Peak. This peak of 6501 m named
for the steep ice slopes can be approached from Pokhara by trekking
into Annapurna sanctuary.
Trip
: 16 Days
Summit : 6,501 m
Base Camp: 4,200 m
Grade : Alpine Grade AD
Season : April/October, November
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now
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MARDI
HIMAL (5587 m)
Mardi
Himal is the lowest and perhaps least climbed or visited of the
trekking peaks. Five day slog up the Mardi Khola brings you to
the peak, an outlier of Machhapuchhare. Peak has a commanding
view of the Annapurna Range and undoubtedly a spectacular one
of the Himalayan Matterhorn, Machhapurchhare. Despite its lowly
altitude the mountain obviously has a great deal of potential
for those interested in small-scale exploratory mountaineering
and the ridges already mentioned present obvious climbing challenges
at a reasonable standard.
Trip
: 14 Days
Summit :
Base Camp:
Grade :
Season : April, October and November
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now
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| HIUNCHULI
(6441 m)
Hiunchuli,
with Annapurna South, forms the massive south facing wall, well
seen when trekking north from Pokhara. An impressive mountain
in its own right, and not as it was at one time dubbed, ‘the
eastern outlier of Annapurna South. Although not a technically
extreme climb, it is exposed to rockfall and serac dangers and
is a complicated route-finding expereince. It is one of the popular
and easy access mountain in the Annapurna Region.
Trip : 17
Days
Summit : 6,441 m
Base Camp: 4,200 m
Grade : Alpine Grade PD
Season : April, October, November
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now
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| PISANG
PEAK (6,091 m)
Pisang peak
rises from yak pastures above the village in a uniform slope to
the final summit pyramid which is an undistinguished snow and
ice slope. The peak obviously has a lot of scope for exploration
and pioneering. The whole of the western flank, which is guarded
by a hanging glacier, would appear to offer a considerable challenge.
Its a long snow slog above Pisang village, steep snow at the top.
The mountaineering school at Manang uses Pisang Peak for training
climbs.
Trip : 18
Summit : 6,091 m
Base Camp: 4,380 m
Grade : Alpine Grade PD-
Season : April, October, November
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now
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| THE
CHULUS
These peaks
form part of the Manag Himal which are quite rightly included
in the larger Damodar Himal, the eastern limit of which runs south
from Chako and Peak 6.687 in a north-to-south direction along
the Hunlung Khola, Nar Khola and Phu Khola.The highest of these
peaks, marked Chulu West (6,630 m ) and south east of this highest
summit is a lower peak that can rightly be termed Chulu East.
Chulu West route circles Gusang Peak to climb Chulu West from
the north, requires at least two high camps whereas Chulu East
ascent starts after a long approach from Manang; needs one or
two high camps.
Trip : 21
Day
Summit : 6220 m Chulu East
Base Camp: 5334 m
Grade : Alpine Grade PD+
Season : April/October/November
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now
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| Ganesh
Himal & Paldor |
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The name Ganesh
is taken from the elephant headed Hindu god of good luck. When
the sky is clear Ganesh Himal, with icy fangs of Pabil 7101 m,
Lobsang Karpo 7,150 m, GI 7406 m and GV 6950 m can be viewed forming
an imposing backdrop to the north-west of Kathmandu. Paldor is
located at the south-east of the Ganesh Himal. The area around
Paldor provides an ideal location for an alpine-style climbing
holiday. There are also several other lower peaks, both rock and
ice, that provide good climbing in a long day from base camp or
a high camp. From a high camp, the routes on the mountain are
not long, although all have some technical interest, usually on
snow or ice.
Trip :
Summit :
Bse Camp :
Grade :
Season : April/October/November
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now
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| LANGTANG |
| Nya
Kanga 5844 m - Naya Kanga is shapely mountain rising to the west
of the Ganja La (5,122 m) which is a popular, although at times
difficult, pass giving access to Helambu. Naya Kanga was formerly
called Ganji La Chuli. Summitting Naya Kanga offers you a superb
views of peaks close to or in Tibet. You get stunning panorama looking
north-east over peaks in the Jugal Himal. This climb involves a
snow and rock climb from a base camp.
Trip : 14
Days
Summit : 5,846 m
Base Camp: 5000 m
Grade : Alpine Grade PD
Season : April/October/November
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now
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| Information
: |
| Climbing
peaks in Nepal is governed by rules and regulation. The Nepal Mountaineering
Association have produced a small booklet containing the regulations
governing the ascent of trekking peaks. There are certain requirements
governing trekking peaks, such as the need for a registered sirdar
and for a recognized agency to get your peak permit.
Peak Permit Fee :
From 1 January 2001 the peaks divided into
Group A and Group B have been brought into one category. Thus,
the Peak Fee for all the 18 peaks is identical.
Group Size :
1 to 4 : US $ 350.-
5 to 8 : US $ 350.- + 40.- per extra person
9 to 12 : US $ 510.- + 25.- per extra person
Climate :
Well
climbing in Nepal can be done almost all the year round from October
- May but the best time will be October/ November, the high season
for climbing and trekking, the conditions are usually ideal with
clear skies and stable weather, although you might experience
the unconsolidated remains of heavy snowfall left over from the
monsoon.
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| CLIMBING
GRADE
This
is intended to give an indication of the overall difficulty of
a climb - and we have taken into account a combination of factors
such as technical difficulty, the length or duration of the climb,
altitude - since this has a significant influence on the grade
of the climb, and also objective dangers such as the route's exposure.
The difficulty of climbing any Himalayan peak can vary from year
to year according to the prevailing conditions, thus the given
grades for our climbing trips are only intended as a rough guide.
| F |
Easy
scree or gentle snow or short slopes up to 30d |
| PD
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Scrambling
ground, slopes maybe 40d |
| AD
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Some
pitched climbing on rock, snow/ice 45-50d |
| D
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Sustained
pitched climbing on rock, ice up to 50-60d |
| TD
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Serious
technical climbing, vertical ice |
| ED1
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Expect
sustained vertical or overhanging sections |
| ED2
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The
ED series is open ended, and gets harder with each generation
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